Words Sarah Meadowcroft, photos Sarah Meadowcroft and HX Hurtigruten Expeditions
Setting Foot on the Seventh Continent – What Dreams Are Made Of...
If you have been anywhere in my vicinity over the past ten months or so, you will have no doubt heard me talk about little else than that enormous, white expanse that is known as Antarctica.
For me; Antarctica was an interest which quickly developed in to an obsession, initially sparked by an invitation of a lifetime to attend the Latin Routes Academy, which took place in Lima in March 2024.
I consider myself to be very lucky, having traversed most of this beautiful Earth, and having been fortunate enough to have wonderful experiences from a very young age.
My parents built a very successful precious metal and jewels business, which involved supplying major cruise and airlines internationally. This meant that we travelled extensively, staying in some of the world’s best hotels, in some of the most exotic locations. The caveat to this was that I had never had an immersive, traveller adventure as such. I didn’t take a gap year and travel like most of my peers, for fear of not staying in a luxury hotel, something which at 45 years old, I now regret.
I am a firm believer that what is for you, won’t pass you. South America and Antarctica were never meant to pass me. I remember being passed the Latin Routes schedule in our work books, and noting that the afternoon session would be dedicated to the poles. I wondered why. What on earth did the polar regions have to do with travelling South America?!! I think back to this now and laugh at my naivety.
Cue Sarah Schlederer from Quark Expeditions. Sarah took to the stage to introduce her audience to the poles. Never before have I heard anybody speak so passionately and informatively about their love for a destination, or their commitment to their product.
By the end of Sarah’s presentation, I had answered my own question, and completely understood just why South America naturally came hand in hand with Antarctica. Never one to do things by halves, I became obsessed with all things Antarctica.
I well and truly caught the “Polar Bug”, and embarked on a mission to learn everything I possibly could about this intriguing white wilderness. I joined the Expedition Cruise Network, which became an invaluable source for information, contacts and ship visits. I crossed the UK to explore expedition vessels, and I signed up to practically every webinar that was available. In September, I attended the inaugural Expedition Cruise Network Conference.
Again, this was a fabulous event, which particularly stood out for me as it was so well orchestrated, but more than this; I was struck by the enthusiasm and camaraderie. Every single attendee was genuinely delighted to be present at the event.
You can imagine my shock when I was awarded Best Newcomer to Expedition Cruising – Individual 2024. There was a roomful of expedition experts surrounding me, and I had won. How did this even happen? By this time, I had been offered a place with Quark to join Sarah on an expedition sailing to Antarctica in November. Of course, this was a dream come true, and I ploughed everything I could into preparing for the trip, promoting the brand and so on.
Sadly, the Quark trip was not meant to be, as shortly before I was due to travel, I suffered with a very nasty chest infection, which escalated to pneumonia. I was admitted to hospital, and advised not to travel.
My carefully laid out plans for the trip, and the promotion and events which I had arranged to follow on from the visit, were now in jeopardy. And then, HX came to my rescue... By coincidence, the lovely Sophie from HX posted a selection of agent rates on the agent Facebook page. And practically as soon as I had seen the post, I was booked! There it was, set in stone. I was almost on my way to Antarctica. A flurry of excitement followed. Who is the best airline, should I do a city break in South America before I board? What should I pack? What about a visa? Do I need a health check? HX answered all of my questions and more...
Getting there
When travelling with HX to Antarctica; you arrange your own flights to Buenos Aires in Argentina (HX will organise for you, but being so close to departure, I chose to manage this myself). Before your travel documents being released, you must undergo a medical assessment, confirming that you are fit to travel. HX can refer you to a third-party provider, who will undertake your assessment and verify that you are fit to travel. This costs 160 Euro; should you be deemed a risk, HX will refund your cruise fare in full.
On arrival in Buenos Aires, HX arrange for you to be collected from the airport, and taken to a hotel to spend the evening, prior to joining your cruise in Ushuaia. We were allocated a room in a 4+* hotel, located in the district of Recoleta. Upon checking in, we were advised to make our way downstairs, whereby the HX team would be available to assist us with our ongoing travel arrangements. And so we did... Here, we found a well-facilitated conference space with many HX advisors available to assist. We were seated and informed of the logistics for the following day (suitcase collection, bus number, flight boarding cards and so on). This was a simple and swift process, professionally executed. My only concern was that we were advised to be ready in the lobby for collection at 3am, to fit with our charter flight to Ushuaia schedule. After a journey of 36 hours, all I craved was sleep.
When I do the journey in future; I will make sure that I book at least two nights in Buenos Aires, to ascertain that I am relaxed and refreshed for the onward journey. At 2am, I awoke to prepare for the journey. I then noticed that a letter had been slipped under the door, to advise that the charter flight was delayed, and that our collection was postposed to 10am. This meant, however, that the tour of Ushuaia that was part of the HX package, prior to embarkation, was cancelled. Apparently, the charter flight schedule can be rather unpredictable, due to the weather conditions on the day.
The following morning was chaotic, I cannot dress that up. Although there were multiple HX stewards available, there was some confusion as to who was travelling on which bus, etc. I cannot place the blame on HX staff; it was simply caused by the fact that there were many people, of multiple nationalities and mostly of a certain age, that wanted to make sure that they got that space on that bus, so as not to lose their trip. Manners and common sense seemed to be in short supply.
We took our charter flight from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia. The aircraft had been specially chartered for HX guests. The aircraft was comfortable, and the crew were efficient and friendly. Three and a half hours seemingly passed in the blink of an eye.
On arrival at Ushuaia Airport, we collected our luggage and were directed straight outside to meet our transfer to the ship. Nothing prepares you for that moment when you step outside of the airport in Ushuaia, and into that cold, crisp air, and witness the magnitude of the imposing mountain range which surrounds this small harbour town.
We were then bussed to the quay, to meet or ship, MS Fridtjof Nansen. I won’t lie, I did not envisage that I would be impressed. My expedition education so far has been centered around the notion that small ship sailing is essential to enjoy an expedition experience in Antarctica. With MS Fridtjof Nansen carrying a maximum of 530 passengers, I was concerned that sailing on a larger ship would equate to a lesser experience.
I will give you the spoiler now; I was wrong! But, back to business...
The Ship
My first impression was that the ship was beautiful; spacious, modern and very well facilitated. Immediately on boarding, one is greeted by a large atrium, with a floor to ceiling video screen that spans the entire height of the ship. The check-in process was very easy; we were given our lanyards and ID card (which also acts as your room key), and were advised to attend deck 5 to be fitted for our brand new HX jackets. This was a well-managed, efficient fashion show (sorry, I mean process). My only negative comment is that the jackets are more like windcheaters; you definitely require a heavy, winter waist-length coat to wear underneath your HX shell for when you brave the Antarctic temperatures.
We were also directed to Deck 3, the Mud Room, to be fitted for our mud boots. Again, despite the ship crew having to provide 500 guests with properly-fitting boots to keep for the duration of the cruise; this was done quickly and easily. Armed with our jackets and water bottles, we headed to our cabin. Wow! Having booked the lead-in category, I didn’t expect much at all. Once more, I was pleasantly surprised!
Our cabin was spacious, well-facilitated, warm and cosy. Decorated in Scandi-style, we had thick duvets, extra blankets, tea and coffee making facilities, sumptuous clean carpet, hairdryer, lighting, and a large picture window from which to watch the world go by.
Our luggage was awaiting us in our cabin, seemingly as if by magic. Excited, we explored the ship from top to bottom... Deck 3 houses the garage, stocked with the zodiac boats and kayaks, mud room and medical centre. Decks 4 and 5 are reserved for cabins. Deck 6 is where the magic happens! Here, you will find the ship’s two main dining restaurants. Fredheim quickly became our favourite, serving burgers, steaks, desserts and the best strawberry milkshakes you have ever tasted, from breakfast until 9pm daily.
Lindstrom offers fine dining; Aune is the main restaurant, serving both buffet and a la carte. Whilst I personally am not a lover of buffet dining; the food served was of good quality and there was ample choice. The service was also impeccable. From both Aune and Fredheim, you dine overlooking the natural landscape through floor to ceiling windows. Enjoying a pancake as penguins dive and swim literally right next to your window is another level!
Deck 6 also houses the reception area, science centre and lecture theatre, and gift shop. The science centre is a constant hub of activity, with the expedition team on-hand almost 24/7, eager to inform, assist, or answer questions. You can also head outside from Deck 6, to an enclosed vantage point (great in poor weather conditions).
Deck 7 boasts a well-facilitated gym and wellness centre; with Deck 10 sporting two outdoor Jacuzzis, a pool, and a poor bar. We later found that sitting out deck in a hot tub as we were sailing through the most incredible scenery that you could ever wish to see is what dreams are made of... And when you get a little chilly, dive straight into the sauna, which is located just inside!
The Explorer Bar is where you meet over maps and mingle. Boasting floor to ceiling windows, comfy chairs and loungers, this is the place to relax in style. It is also where you will find the best hot chocolate imaginable, which is made even better with a slug of Baileys in. You have an entire menu full of every cocktail imaginable, the majority of which are included in your all-inclusive drinks and dining plan. Our first two days aboard MS Fridtjof Nansen were filled with excitement and anticipation, crossing the infamous Drake Passage. We were very fortunate to experience the Drake Lake heading out from, and back in to, Ushuaia. Thankfully, not the notorious Drake Shake! Regardless, Fridtjof Nansen is equipped with every technological apparatus conceivable to make your journey as pleasant as possible.
She boasts x-bow ice-breaker technology, to conquer the most difficult ice conceivable, and methods to stabilise the ship without impacting the fragile environment. I did not feel sick once, and only felt her move significantly once or twice throughout the entire voyage. Each day at 6pm, the crew publish the itinerary for the following day. This can be found displayed in various locations around the ship, on your tv screen, and on the easy to use HX app, which you download on your phone. The app is real-time, so I would recommend checking regularly in case of any last-minute updates.
The trip
Antarctica with HX Hurtigruten Expeditions - photos by HX Hurtigruten Expeditions' photographers
Days one and two are focused on what the voyage will entail, and what the crew hopes and intends to achieve. Throughout. the expedition team are on deck, helping you to spot wildlife and educating you on various bird species, etc. The team are also available in the science centre, encouraging you to find out more about the natural environment around you. There is also a full programme of activities, such as painting workshops, knitting and educational lectures.
A large proportion of guests are single travellers, so these arranged activities seek to involve any guest that wants to feel included. And it works brilliantly!
On Day 3, we crossed into Antarctica, and as if by magic, the air became so much colder... On the evening of Day 3, the captain took to the intercom to inform us all that our first iceberg was coming in to sight! I don’t think I have ever run anywhere as quickly as I did that evening, to get space on deck as we drew closer to this ethereal structure. Believe me when I tell you, nothing prepares you for your first iceberg, and it is a memory that I will cherish forever.
The following morning, we awoke to the most beautiful sight. We opened the curtains and were surrounded by the most incredible view imaginable. If, like me, you loved CS Lewis’ tales, you could be forgiven for thinking that you had stepped through the wardrobe and in to Narnia! That day, we explored the Penola Strait by zodiac, and made our first landing on Planeau Island.
My very first experience of Antarctica could not have been bettered. We hiked through thick snow in the bright sunshine, stood just feet from playful Gentoo penguins, and observed seals basking on the shore. This was without doubt one of the most amazing experiences of my entire life! Time and time again when learning about expedition cruising; I was told that the golden rule was to cruise onboard a very small ship, 180 passengers or less, to make the most of the voyage. I understood that sailing on a larger vessel would limit landings, zodiac excursions, and attention. I can now tell you that this school of thought is very wrong.
The expedition team onboard made every conceivable effort to get us off of the ship as many times as possible daily, and to ascertain that we were provided with the most enjoyable, immersive experience that was in their power to deliver. Operations-wise, correlating nearly 500 guests onto zodiacs daily and organising landings, was slick, professional and safe.
I can honestly say that each zodiac sailing or landing was conducted with the guest’s pleasure and safety at the foremost. For example, our zodiac sailings on the Penola Strait were leisurely; due to the fact that the weather was fine, and that penguins and humpback whales were aplenty. On Day 5, we sailed to Wilhelmina Bay, and despite the conditions being cold and wet, our guide persevered on our zodiac sailing until we located an elusive humpback whale (an incredible experience, by the way).
Day 6 brought us to Almirante Brown Scientific Station, where we physically stepped foot on the 7th Continent. We did it! Again, the excursion was expertly executed. Penguins were aplenty, snow was pristine, and the surrounding vistas were fairytale-like. As is typical with an expedition cruise, our itinerary changed multiple times on the journey, due to the weather. On Day 7, we were scheduled to land at Orne Harbour. Unfortunately, the landing site was blocked with ice. No problem; the crew had a backup plan. The captain made a decision, based on the conditions. We instead headed on to the Orne Islands, and traversed the small channels by zodiac.
Our final expedition landing took place on Deception Island on Day 10. As mystical and intriguing as its’ name suggests, Deception Island is a tale of two halves; an active volcano bordered by polar ice. What a high-note to end on! I will happily admit that I just wasn’t brave enough to take on the infamous “Polar Plunge”, but it is most definitely on the agenda for the next visit!
As our expedition drew to a close, we sailed a rather uneventful Drake Passage, before safely landing back in Ushuaia. The return journey gave us the opportunity to wind down, after what was for most guests, and most certainly for me, one of the most epic experiences of our lives. Having docked in Ushuaia, we were transferred back to the airport to board our charter flight back to Buenos Aires, this time with a group of people who met as strangers, and left as firm friends.
Final Notes
From a personal perspective; I had the most incredible experience, one which few will be lucky enough to experience in the course of lifetime. Being a huge animal, wildlife and environmental advocate; this expedition educated me in the traditional sense, and nurtured my soul. From a professional perspective, I have learnt so much:
I have learnt that one size doesn’t fit all when it comes to expedition cruising;
I have learnt that expedition cruising doesn’t appeal to “only” a certain type of client. I learnt that a retired docker from Liverpool can cross the Atlantic to revel in this experience just as much as a newly-divorced thirty-something from Australia who feels she’s missed out on her youth. A young couple from Singapore can take this trip for their Honeymoon and enjoy it as much as a group of army colleagues based in Germany (yes, we met them all!).
I have learnt that it isn’t just about sailing on small ships; slightly larger ships can and do offer an incredible experience.
It isn’t all about spending a fortune either; Silversea clients appreciate the dressing for dinner aspect, whilst most HX guests were more than happy to spend 11 nights in warm layers and Ugg boots.
HX offers a brilliant experience for those clients who have always wanted to see a penguin, but aren’t necessarily die-hard explorers who want to spend every waking moment going full throttle on an adventure. It’s about the destination and the experience. Both of which, were truly incredible!
Photos from Sarah's personal archive:
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