Words and photos by Akvile Marozaite
Le Commandant Charcot: The Exception to the Rule in Expedition Cruising
In expedition cruising, we often emphasize the destinations over the ships themselves—after all, the vessel is simply a means to access some of the most extraordinary places on Earth. But, as with every rule, there are exceptions. Le Commandant Charcot is one of them.
Watch the interview with Captain Patrick Marchesseau, the commander of Le Commandant Charcot as Akvile discussing with him what sets Le Commandant Charcot apart from other vessels in polar regions.
A One-of-a-Kind Icebreaker
Unlike traditional expedition ships, Le Commandant Charcot is the only icebreaker currently operating in expedition cruising. Historically, icebreakers have been used for extreme polar voyages—reaching the North Pole or navigating remote Arctic regions. In the past, companies like Quark Expeditions and Poseidon Expeditions chartered retired Russian icebreakers such as 50 Years of Victory, Yamal, and Arktika to accomplish these feats. Today, Le Commandant Charcot stands alone in this category, offering a unique and modern approach to high-latitude exploration.
Launched in 2021, Le Commandant Charcot is a hybrid-powered icebreaker, running on liquefied natural gas (LNG) and electric batteries, allowing for short silent cruising periods without engine emissions. In just four years, she has already achieved significant milestones: reaching both the geographical and magnetic North Pole, as well as the Northern Pole of Inaccessibility in September 2024. This year, rather than wintering in the Southern Hemisphere, she is exploring Canada’s St. Lawrence River in winter—a voyage I am about to embark on myself.
A Floating Research Hub
Beyond her impressive technical capabilities, Le Commandant Charcot serves as a floating research station. Onboard, two dedicated science labs host researchers conducting experiments, collecting data, and sharing findings with the scientific community and the public. In an industry still far from fully sustainable—largely due to the lack of widely available sustainable fuel and other challenges—PONANT stands out as a leader in how commercial expedition cruising can contribute to scientific research and environmental understanding in some of the planet’s most remote locations.
On our trip, Daniel Cron, scientific coordinator, is working alongside two scientists who are here to measure the presence of microplastics in St Lawrence river. We are also very lucky because Dr Megan Clampitt, the head of science at Ponant, who is usually working from Marseille office, is onboard too – she takes a group of guests and shows them around the labs, explaining various projects the company works on as well as the overall strategy of the company. As their science programme evolves and solidifies, PONANT clients can now access annual report and learn more about the impact the company facilitated: over 150 researchers took advantage of this partnership in 2023 (according to the latest available report) and engaged in 59 scientific missions which otherwise would have been a costly endeavour and unlikely to happen without PONANT's support. And while the resident scientists are mainly onboard to conduct research, they also eagerly engage with the clients through sharing their findings during lectures, being available to answer questions, and during the lab visits. Based on our visit, the clients are very keen to learn and enjoy the opportunity – which is a fantastic win win for PONANT and the scientific community.
Luxury Meets Expedition
Despite her rugged capabilities, Le Commandant Charcot is also a luxury ship. She boasts an Alain Ducasse restaurant—a name synonymous with Michelin-starred excellence (fun fact: Ducasse is one of the very few chefs to have earned 21 Michelin stars in his career). A heated outdoor infinity pool offers a surreal experience amid the icy landscapes she navigates, while her elegantly designed public spaces and staterooms exude a refined French aesthetic.
How French is Too French?
This is my first experience on an expedition cruise where two languages—French and English—are spoken onboard. Dual-language sailings are not uncommon (Hapag-Lloyd Cruises offers German/English expedition voyages), but I’m curious to see how it impacts the onboard social dynamic. One of the great joys of small-ship expedition cruising is the shared sense of adventure among passengers—will language create separation, or will it add to the cultural richness of the journey?
As for the rest of the experience, it is unmistakably French. The cuisine, the wine, and even the crew predominantly hail from French-speaking backgrounds. We are travelling in French speaking part of Canada, so French language dominates during the excursions too, however PONANT makes every effort to ensure English speaking guests can enjoy the excursions with a dedicated guide who speaks English.
Too French? It depends on your viewpoint. I am a firm believer that if one wants to find friends, language isn’t really a barrier, and I engage with both English speaking and French guests during this trip. The food, the atmosphere onboard, the announcements are all part of the charm, and Le Commandant Charcot proves that even in the world of expedition cruising, sometimes the ship is just as much the destination as the journey itself. For those clients that may not share my point of view, PONANT has an excellent partnership with Smithsonian Institute and regularly runs Smithsonian Journeys which are conducted exclusively in English and can be an excellent option if dual language trips are a deal breaker.
Watch the interview with the Hotel Director Holger Herten to learn how the company executes luxury experience in remote regions.
The Itinerary
Ice Canoeing in Québec
Our journey begins in Québec, where a deep freeze has settled in—the temperature hovers around -20°C. The night before, we attended the excursions briefing and decided to try one of PONANT’s signature Arctic adventures: ice canoeing. I had no idea what to expect, but it turned out to be unlike anything I’ve ever experienced.
It was a crisp, bright morning as we made our way to the canoe centre, where local guides welcomed us with a debriefing on technique and safety. Then came the layering-up process: neoprene knee-high socks, guards, booties, ice crampons, an outer neoprene layer for leg protection, special gloves, and a PFD lifejacket. I felt about as graceful as a baby seal—especially after learning that agility would be key for the experience.
Each canoe carried five people—a captain at the back and four rowers. The process was simple in theory but intense in practice: paddle hard when in open water, then, as the canoe hits ice, switch tactics. Oars go inside, one leg swings out, and we scoot across the ice floes, working in sync with our teammates to keep the canoe stable and moving forward. And, of course, all of this is done with the added motivation of not falling into the frigid river.
The adrenaline rush was real. The teamwork required was immense. Hot chocolate standing on a drifting ice flow moving rapidly with the current towards the ship was an incredible experience.
Saguenay
The following day, we woke up to a snowy morning as Le Commandant Charcot made its way toward Saguenay, our second stop on this amazing trip. By 9 a.m., the skies had cleared, and the rising sun cast a golden glow over the frozen landscape. Even the captain made a spirited announcement, urging guests to look outside—missing the view, he said, would be unforgivable.
By then, Le Commandant Charcot had begun pushing gently into the ice, navigating the fjord with effortless grace in the crisp -16°C air. At 11:30 a.m., we were invited onto the helicopter pad deck for a hot drink and a group photo, soaking in the breath-taking scenery before arriving in Saguenay.
The ship, designed to explore the world's most extreme environments, was parked in the ice—a first for me, experiencing an ice landing. As we stepped onto the frozen surface, we were warmly welcomed by a local reception committee before donning helmets and balaclavas to brace against the windchill. From there, a short snowmobile ride carried us to shore, where local guides awaited to lead us into the heart of the landscape.
For today’s excursion, we chose to go snowshoeing in the Baie forest with a local guide. It was the perfect day for it—the crisp air, the snow-covered trees, and the soft crunch beneath our feet transported me back to childhood winters in Lithuania, where February days could plunge to -25°C.
Our guide, dressed in traditional clothing, shared stories of the Indigenous communities who lived here long before colonization. She introduced us to tools used for fishing, hunting, and agriculture—ingenious designs that had allowed people to survive and flourish in this harsh but beautiful environment.
Dog sledding
On the second day in the Ha Ha Bay in Saguenay river, the temperature fell further to below - 20 degrees Celsius. This didn’t stop us from joining a group of guests for a 40min ride to a dog sledding excursion. This was yet another first experience for me and one I will remember for many years to come- from the noise and excitement and exhilaration of the ride- I was lucky enough to be the ‘princess’ and not the musher and my only task was to enjoy the ride- to making friends with one of the dogs, a beautiful husky. Spending time with him reminded me of our own two doggies left at home and I felt a tinge of guilt and a sense of missing them - life is definitely better when you share it with the dogs!
We got back to the ship by the time it got dark and seeing le Commandant Charcot in ice, all lit up is a view to behold- she is nothing short of magnifique.
The Rest of Our Short Trip
We left Saguenay Fjord the following morning, once again treated to its breath-taking scenery as we sailed downriver. The day was spent at sea—or rather, on the river—giving us time to explore more of the ship’s offerings. In the morning, I joined a group of guests for an interesting visit to the scientific lab, followed by an outdoor oyster tasting on the upper deck just before lunch. As we transitioned from the ice-covered fjord into the open waters of the St. Lawrence River, the landscape shifted significantly. In the afternoon, expedition team member Constance gave a great lecture on sea ice in the St. Lawrence, which proved invaluable the next morning when we encountered an incredible array of ice formations—a true natural masterpiece. Among the floes, we spotted several seals hauled out on the ice, where they come to give birth to their young.
By lunchtime, we arrived at Sept-Îles, our final stop before heading home. This small town, a cultural stronghold of the Innu people, welcomed us with snow, but that didn’t deter us from joining a short excursion of the town. We explored the town, learned about daily life in this remote region, and enjoyed a tasting of locally sourced salmon—a fitting way to end our adventure.
About PONANT
Ponant is a luxury French expedition cruise operator, renowned for its elegant French style, small-ship experience, and commitment to sustainable exploration. With a fleet that includes modern expedition vessels and the world’s first luxury icebreaker, Le Commandant Charcot, Ponant offers immersive voyages to remote destinations, from the polar regions to tropical archipelagos. Guests can expect refined hospitality, expert-led excursions, and a strong focus on environmental responsibility, including LNG-powered Le Commandant Charcot. PONANT has also an exceptional array of partnerships that span from scientific institutions to lifestyle brands and more, and my host Jeremy Lindblad, the director of Partnerships at PONANT, was very kind to spend couple of minutes with me talking about them and why he is so excited about the company’s future. Watch the video to learn more.
Who is le Commandant Charcot for:
Le Commandant Charcot was built to specifically sail in polar regions and this is where her might is the most apparent. Le Commandant Charcot is first and foremost, the best ship for guests with big polar dreams: those who hope to reach the North Pole, or explore Weddell sea in depth- there simply is no other ship in the industry that can achieve what Le Commandant Charcot can in the polar extremes.
She is also an incredibly elegant and luxurious ship – so those guests who enjoy finer things in life and are keen to explore some of the remotest corners of Earth in ultimate style will love her too – Alan Ducasse restaurant onboard will delight and surprise with daily renewed menus, served by highly trained staff who would have all gone through extensive training to meet Michelin standards; the onboard spa, indoors and outdoors pools, a decent size gym, Le Bar and various public areas will provide ample space to relax and take in the beautiful frozen scenery the ship travels to.
PONANT’s partnerships with organizations such as Smithsonian Institute, The Explorers Club, as well as regular resident scientists that join the company through various grants also ensure high calibre guest speakers and engaging conversations about the places the ship travels to – so the trips will also appeal to the guests willing to learn more about the planet from leading experts and through thought-provoking conversations and ability to observe the phenomenon in situ.
It is true that Le Commandant Charcot trips come with a higher price tag, but based on my personal experience, your clients will get their money’s worth and more, and will thank you for an opportunity to explore some of the world’s most magnificent places on this incredible ship unlike any other.
Thank you for reading.
Akvile
Akvile is the CEO and Co-Founder of the Expedition Cruise Network and travelled onboard Le Commandant Charcot as the guest of PONANT.
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